History
History of the breed
The Breed Standard
Preparing Puppy Kibble
Ear Taping
Showing
Grooming
Toenail
Training
People With Children
Crating
Exercise
The Bullmastiff, a cross between the Mastiff (60 percent) and the Bulldog (40 percent), was first recognized as a pure-bred dog in Britain in 1924.It is important to note that the Bulldog used in establishing the Bullmastiff breed was the old-type then present in Britain, and not the smaller and less agile version being bred today.
The "Gamekeeper's Night Dog", as the Bullmastiff was then known, was bred to knock down and hold poachers until the gamekeeper could arrive and take the intruder into custody. The Mastiffs were not quick and agile enough, and the Bulldog too ferocious in mauling the victim, thus the Bullmastiff was produced to exemplify the desired qualities of each breed.
Due to its responsibilities as a working dog, the favoured colour of the Bullmastiff was brindle (black with "tiger" striping throughout), to provide night camouflage.
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The Breed Standard (in brief) -
The breed comes in 3 colours - brindle, mentioned above, which can be striped with either fawn or red; fawn, which is a creamy ivory which can range from silver to beige;and red, mahogany red being the preferred colour. In many cases, the fawn colour can run into the red colour, producing what is known as red-fawns, being neither a true fawn nor a true red.
In all colours, the face and ears have a black "mask" - another important characteristicwhich provides camouflage for a night watch dog. Eyes must be dark, and never light. The coat is short and dense, requiring little grooming. Teeth should be large and evenly spaced, with a “preferably level or slightly undershot" bite, where the bottom and top teeth line up together, or still touch with the bottom jaw being slightly more forward. Because of the Bulldog influence, many Bullmastiffs are undershot, which is a fault when showing, depending upon the degree of protrusion.
Size - Males - 110 to 130 lbs., 25 to 27" tall at withers (shoulders)
Females - 100 to 120 lbs., 24 to 26" tall at withers (shoulders)
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ALWAYS SOAK PUPPY KIBBLE IN WATER
Serving. This takes about an hour, depending upon the brand of kibble, before feeding. We recommend getting the next batch ready just after feeding the last - i.e., after feeding puppy breakfast, get the lunch portion soaking. Continue this as long as possible during the first year of life. Then, gradually mix in hard kibble before serving. The water can be plain tap water (do NOT use boiling water to speed up the process as this kills the nutrients in the food), or spring water, as you prefer.
Use a ratio of roughly 50/50 dry kibble to water for soaking (i.e. - 3/4 cup of kibble gets soaked in 3/4 cup of water). The reason for soaking the kibble is to prevent bloat. Bloat can occur when greedy puppies fill their bellies with dry kibble, then drink water, causing the kibble to expand inside the stomach, creating great discomfort, or even death.
NEVER GIVE A DOG CHOCOLATE!! OR ALCOHOL!! OR PEANUT BUTTER!!
before
While not mandatory, ear taping should be done to preserve the appearance of your dog. It is not intolerable to the animal when done properly, it is only necessary for a short time during the dog's life, and we believe the results are worth it. Ears which sit properly on the Bullmastiff appear as triangles sitting against the cheek.
At about 3 months of age, you will awaken one morning to find that one of your puppy's previously perfect ears has turned, or "flipped" sideways (the 'flying nun' look). This is when they should be taped - the other ear will quickly follow suit.
Taping the ears into position helps to form the cartilage in the correct ear set required for show. It improves the appearance of your dog by making the head appear larger.
To tape properly, you need one-sided duct tape, or similar. Cut 2 lengths - one long enough to wrap from outer mid-ear, underneath puppy's chin, to the opposite outer mid-ear. Cut another piece of tape, one inch shorter on each end. Holding one ear out, stick the shorter piece of tape on the inner ear. Bring the tape, sticky side out, under the dog's chin and attach to the opposite inner ear. You should be able to get 2 fingers between puppy's neck and the tape (this allows him ample room to swallow). Now, secure the longer piece of tape (sticky side in) from one outer mid-ear to the other, joining sticky sides together underneath puppy's chin. The result is ears taped down without the tape being stuck to the dog's chin.
The dog will take a few minutes to get used to this, however, they do adjust and will not bother with it after a while.
Remove the tape every 2 to 5 days or so, letting the skin breathe. Baby oil loosens the glue on the duct tape (and makes ears smell a bit better!). Only re-tape when the ear(s) 'flip' again. If they stay in place, no more taping is necessary.
Welcome to the world of dog showing - it can be fun and rewarding. It can also be expensive and frustrating. Generally, shows cost about $28.00 to $30.00 per day entered - dogs must be six months of age before their first show.
Toenails should be clipped, ears cleaned, teeth brushed, and coat brushed. The dog must be clean and in shape. Neutered animals cannot be shown, except at breed specialty shows offering veterans' and altered classes.
Entry fees must be paid in advance, before the closing date (normally a couple of weeks before the date of the show). All information must be accurately recorded on the entry form or the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) may disqualify the entry.
Handlers and their dogs must be at ringside at the appointed time - otherwise, your entry is forfeit. No special clothing is required for the handler, however, a measure of neatness and conservativeness is expected and you are required to dress fairly respectfully. Skirts for women are common, as are jackets for men. (Washable ones, if possible)
Show collars for dogs should be light, not heavy, metal. Fancy studs, neon nylon collars and the like are frowned upon. Anything that is worn to draw an inordinate amount of attention to your animal generally backfires. The only identification allowed into the ring is your show number, worn on your left arm and secured with a rubber band.
Handlers can be bought for about $60.00 per day in fees. While expensive, this also includes transportation of your animal to and from the show, so it eliminates all of the bother for you. However, you miss out on the fun of entering the ring together and strutting your stuff.
As in any subjective sport, the decision of the judge, although final, is not always agreeable nor predictable. Your opinion is not objective either, so accept the results with good grace. Remarks made in bad taste about the judge, if overheard, can result in a reprimand from CKC officials.
(You may, of course, say what you like once you are in your vehicle with the windows closed .... don’t forget the sunroof, too!)
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The coat of a Bullmastiff is so short and dense that a quick brushing once a month or so is usually all that is required.
During moulting season, when the coat is shedding, you might want to increase brushing frequency to twice per week, or even every day if needed. We use a curry-comb type mitt or glove used on horses.
Bathing can be done using store-brand Baby Shampoo - it is mild on their skin and does not sting if it gets in their eyes. Of course, you can buy higher priced “canine” coat shampoos at pet stores and vets if you prefer.
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Toenails should be kept fairly short to prevent the feet from becoming deformed. Clip them every 10 to 14 days. Dogs walked on pavement a lot (i.e. - in the city) will require less toenail trimming than inactive dogs or dogs used to running on grass, because the cement wears down the nails naturally. They will, however, still require trimming! Show dogs' nails are always kept short for neatness of appearance.
When clipping the nails (don't forget the "dew claws" on the front feet, where our thumbs would be), don't take too much off at once. If you cut what is called the quick (a vein which runs into the toenail), the nail will bleed. This can be difficult to stop with a heavy dog standing on the foot. Try clipping out of doors until you become well practiced. We keep KWIK-STOP brand powder on hand to stop bleeding immediately when topically applied, but flour or corn starch can be used in an emergency.
Generally, dogs do not enjoy toenail clipping, since it is usually awkward for the animal, quite ticklish, and hurts if you cut the quick. Be patient, give lots of praise and make sure you have a clean cut before snipping. Best to release the nail and make another attempt than to hurt the dog, which makes it all the more difficult next time. Experiment to see which position your dog is most comfortable in.
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Puppy classes should be used to train and socialize your dog. We recommend waiting until at least 4 months of age before enrolling in these classes for 2 reasons :
(1) Parvovirus can be more easily picked up before this age, and,
(2) Puppy is still young and needs time to enjoy his youth.
Excessive training before 4 months of age can break a dog's spirit and cause it to lose pleasure in learning - make your puppy training FUN! Socializing with different people and other animals is an important part of your dog's life. We strongly recommend puppy training classes and/or obedience classes, however, you should also make sure you expose your dog to new and interesting situations (take him to friend's homes, public parks, walks in the city, etc.) on a regular basis.
Dogs need to learn that people come in different ages, colours, sizes and shapes, wear different clothing (including hats!), have different voices and own different pets. Buses, trucks and emergency vehicle sirens are new experiences, as is traffic, pollution, crying babies, mooing cows, gravel roads and motorcycles. The more new situations your dog encounters, the more secure he will feel in any unfamiliar environment.
During training, it is important to note that your dog will go through a second chewing stage at around 10 months of age. Know it and be prepared. Once over puppy chewing, you may boast about how good your new family member is, chewing only on his own things and being as good as gold. BEWARE - at about 10 months, the adult head begins to come in and at the same time adolescent hormones are surging, and instinct tells the dog that he must chew!! Expect it, and have some positive chew toys on hand (Nylabone hard bones are great - they're not kidding that they "save dogs' lives"). You may also find that at this time he feels a strong urge to disobey you and revert back to previously corrected undesirable behaviour. This is normal “teenage” rebellion, and lasts about one month. Crate your dog during the chewing stage if you wish. It protects him and your household. Before long, your well-behaved companion will be back to his former model self.
Bullmastiffs are most easily trained with the reward system - praise as a reward for everyday commands, and treats as a reward for more difficult tasks. For example, a dog should not expect a treat each time he sits down on command, however, a reward will have to follow a bath or a toenail clipping session for it to be successful a second time.
To teach "Sit", raise a treat over your dog's head, drawing it above his forehead. His natural tendency will be to sit and watch it. Or, lightlypush down on the dog's rear end while clearly stating the command. Once sitting, tell the dog that he is good, reward with the treat, and smile at him with approval. Several days of this secures the sit command, the easiest to teach.
Move on to the "Stay" command by first placing the dog in the sit. Stretch your hand in front of his face and slowly walk away with your hand still extended while repeating the stay command in a steady voice. Don't expect too much from puppy at first - 5 seconds seem like a long time to him. Keep repeating the command and eventually he will get it.
The most valuable command in our house has been the “Drop It!”command. Teach the puppy that “drop it” means to release the object from his mouth. To do this, say “drop it” while opening his jaw, removing the object you want back, then praise; then, replace it with something he CAN have to eat or to chew on.
Borrow a dog training book/video at the library for more advanced training. We believe in the reward system (positive reinforcement), accompanied by verbal disapproval when warranted. A learning puppy should not be shouted at - however, a dog refusing to execute a command it already knows needs to hear a firm voice. End your training sessions on a high note - happy and fun!
A sharp, verbal reprimand will be as effective in correcting wrong behaviour as a physical one, and is often accompanied by the characteristic Bullmastiff "sigh". Your dog may lay down, hang his head, refuse to look at you, and exhale deeply to show his injured feelings. Let him - then, 10 minutes later or so, reassure him that you still love him and his slate is wiped clean again. Most of our dogs do this when they are reprimanded with a raised voice.
All dogs should be taught at an early age to become used to humans removing things from their mouths - occasionally, take away his food bowl during his meal, then replace it and praise him. Pet him while he’s eating sometimes.
Remove chewing toys from his mouth (while saying “drop it“), inspect them for damage, then return it to him. In this way, puppy learns that people are permitted and expected to put body parts into his mouth without fear of being bitten, and can take away and replace food which is by nature to be closely guarded. We have already started doing this with your puppy, by removing chew toys from him and by checking his teeth, etc.
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PEOPLE WITH CHILDREN
Note that, while your animal will now be properly trained and reliable, remind your children that they cannot treat all dogs in this way or they risk being bitten. A child will not understand, unless taught, that they can play with their own dog while he eats, or steal his toys from his mouth, but must not expect the same reaction from the dog that lives down the street.
If a young puppy bites a person, usually in play, you must promptly express your disapproval while forcing the dog to submit to you. This is best accomplished by yelling "OUCH“, then “NO”, releasing the jaws (if necessary), and dominating the puppy in some manner (standing up tall). This leaves you in the alpha position and him in the submissive one, and he will quickly learn that biting behaviour will not be tolerated by you, the master. Another method is to grasp his jowls (lips) and stare him in the face, while saying “NO” quite firmly.
If a young dog who is old enough to know better bites, immediate disapproval must be enforced. Holding an older puppy down on his back becomes less effective as the pup ages (he will struggle, or have temper tantrums which makes learning impossible). Wrap your hands around his muzzle, securing the jaws closed, and smack him under the chin. Not too hard - the purpose is not to injure the dog, but to frighten him and humiliate him. After this, isolate him or make him lay down quietly (in his crate or on his blanket) for a period of time to calm down.
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Crating
a dog is a great idea as it makes him feel secure - it will become his "safe" area, where he will go to sleep and when he is scolded by you - as well as protecting him when he is left alone from getting into something harmful. Never follow him into his crate when scolding - he has reached his safety zone.
Never allow your dog roam free - he should always be leashed in public. Avoid off-leash parks!! A young Bullmastiff will not usually start a fight with another dog on neutral ground, however, he will reach an age where he will not back down once another dog challenges him. The Bullmastiff stands his ground and fights when he must. Obviously, these kinds of fights can lead to severe, even mortal, injuries.
Naturally, a young puppy may cower and be afraid of a larger animal. A situation like this could affect him for the rest of his life (fear, or aggression), so, at all costs, avoid other negative animal confrontations.
Unfortunately, many pet owners are not responsible, and stray or unleashed dogs may approach and challenge your Bullmastiff. If you have your dog leashed while this happens, release him from his leash if a fight is imminent. If there is no time for this, simply let go of the leash. It will prevent you from being dragged into it.
When left to fight, the aggressing dog will often back down once it realizes that the Bullmastiff is prepared to defend itself and its family. Many a German Shepherd has had second thoughts after challenging a fully alert and powerful Bullmastiff dog.
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